Into the Wild

Mule Packing in the Canadian Rockies

Staring down a winding dirt path to rolling foothills at the base of jagged ice-capped summits, Dewy Matthews and his crew are saddled up for a multi-day trip into the Kananaskis mountain range. Matthews is the owner of Anchor D Guiding & Outfitting, an outfitter for backcountry camping on horseback with a homebase ranch located an hour southwest of Calgary. For over 40 years, Anchor D has been leading visitors from all over the world into the Kananaskis to explore the wild beauty of the mountains and share in a piece of Alberta’s rich Western heritage.

Accessing Wild Terrain

Leaving behind the open land of the ranch, the group climbs steadily through dense pine forests into the rugged wilderness of the Alberta Rockies, most of which is only accessible on horseback. As the crew crosses rivers, climbs high mountain passes, and drops down into canyons, they are paying homage to the lasting impact of mule packers throughout history.

It's a lot like stepping back a hundred years, Matthews tells us. Mules are probably some of the earliest pack animals. They're a very rugged, sturdy animal and they can go a long time on less feed than a horse. They've been used all over the world to haul everything from food and firewood for camps to weapons of war.

Before the construction of roadways, remote communities in mountainous areas like the Kananaskis relied on the survival and skills of mule packers to deliver essential goods and supplies by packing through treacherous terrain that was unmanageable by wagon or on foot. Matthews explains just how dependable a working mule is for a trip of this magnitude. A mule in the backcountry is just super solid. They're very smart. They will go out of their way to avoid trouble, whereas a horse can get into it pretty quick. They are a very unique and interesting animal to work with.

Today, many who venture into the backcountry on horseback are dedicated to preserving the traditions created by the mule packers of the past, dating back centuries—living off only the essentials, respecting the power of nature, and learning from the land and animals they are traveling with. When you're about to land in the mountain area for packing, you set your clock back in time, says Matthews. You slow down to the speed of the mountains, to the speed of the mules. You start to appreciate things a lot more.

Time-Honored Skills

As the crew heads deeper into the forest, they are relying on age-old packing techniques to survive for days at a time in the elements of the Canadian Rockies. Most Canadian packing skills are shared with American mule packers, but of all the skills needed to be a mule packer, understanding how to tie knots specifically for different types of packs is essential for mule packing anywhere. This is a critical skill, says Matthews, that requires expert precision and accuracy to keep loads balanced on the mule or horse’s back to prevent falls and damaged goods. Just the art of tying a manty up is a trick all on its own, he tells us. It’s all about the knots and how you do it. There are different types of diamonds. There's the double diamond, a single diamond. The diamond hitch is a legendary knot used in the mountains and that's one of the things that you need to learn if you're going to be a packer right off the bat.

Having spent decades in the backcountry, the ins and outs of these complex knots are second nature to Matthews, as are the intricacies of the alpine world surrounding him. You can go to one mountain range and then the next, and there are subtle differences. The trees aren't the same. You'll get more pines. It's harder to get through. But getting above the tree line is huge. When you spend a bit of time on a good horse up in those mountains—those mountains are so big, and they've been there so long—it can just shrink your problems down. It's just got so much to give you if you can take it in and take the time to enjoy them.

Having spent decades in the backcountry, the ins and outs of these complex knots are second nature to Matthews, as are the intricacies of the alpine world surrounding him. You can go to one mountain range and then the next, and there are subtle differences. The trees aren't the same. You'll get more pines. It's harder to get through. But getting above the tree line is huge. When you spend a bit of time on a good horse up in those mountains—those mountains are so big, and they've been there so long—it can just shrink your problems down. It's just got so much to give you if you can take it in and take the time to enjoy them.

The Great Outdoors

When Dewy Matthews and his crew set up camp for the night, there is a sense of peace and gratitude for the hard work they’ve all put in to be able to sit together under the stars and share a hot meal cooked over the campfire. Matthews has found his purpose in bringing people into the Kananaskis backcountry, both seasoned packers and novices alike. To see these mountains fresh through the eyes of people that are seeing them for the first time, and their amazement and wonder, it just tickles me half to death. It never gets old for me. I've been doing this for 40 years and I'll pop up over a ridge and know what it's going to be like, and it'll still take my breath away. It's just amazing where it drops down 2,000, 3,000 feet below you. The whole world just opens up to you.

Though the journey is not without its challenges, there is no greater reward for the cowboys and cowgirls at Anchor D than having a community to experience their traditions with. The work they do to share the Kananaskis with the world helps keep Alberta’s Western heritage alive as new generations of people are inspired by the historic legacy of mule packing with every trip. You can hear the pride in Matthews’ voice as he tells us, You get young people that are here wanting to learn about horses or are bringing their skills here from a different country like New Zealand or Australia. They are here because of the mountains and the horses. You just meet the coolest people, and you make friendships forever. This year I've had people dropping in that wrangled for me 15 and 20 years ago. That makes you feel pretty good that they still enjoy coming back here.

With an honest attitude and a never-ending desire to answer the call of the wild, the mule packer is a true symbol for the spirit of adventure. In Matthews’ humble words, The whole point of packing mules is to be able to throw your world on that animal, go over that hill, and see what's there. Take everything, head into the mountains, know you're going to be comfortable when you're there, and see what God put out there.

Watch the Video