Boot & Shoe General Widths

Recommending Sizes

1. Whenever possible get your foot measured.  Most boots and shoe stores use a foot-measuring device called a Brannock, which offers the most accurate foot measurements. 
2. If you are familiar with the brand, order the same size you usually wear in that brand.
3. If you own another brand of boots, this size will usually do!  If you don't remember the size, look inside the shaft of the boots or on the inside bottom.
4. If it is your first pair of western boots, usually start with 1/2 a size down from your normal shoe size.
5. If you are between sizes, order a 1/2 size up.
6. Some Brands tend to run slightly small or big.  If this is the case, we note this in the boot's description.  Yet, this is only a guideline and we can't guarantee that this recommendation will work for you.

 Finding the Right Fit

1. Try your boots on in the afternoon, after you have been on your feet for an extended amount of time.
2. Try your boots on inside on carpeted floor first.  Give them a try.  This will allow you to feel how they fit without showing any signs of wear on the boots.  
3. Remember to wear the socks that you plan to wear with the boots.
4. On Western Boots, the boot must slip slightly in the heel.  When a boot is new, the sole is stiff.  As you wear the boot, the sole is "flexed".  With time most of the slippage you feel will disappear.  If the slip feels excessive you may want to wear a thicker sock or you may need a narrower fit.  Note though that slight slippage is necessary to obtain a proper fit.
5. With leather boots remember, that as you continue to wear the boots they will stretch slightly and soften over time.  

How a Western Boot should fit:

Please note, this following is a guideline only and not a fit guarantee. 

What Size:  When comparing shoes to boots, remember, a shoe has laces or a strap to hold the foot in place, a boot, only has the instep to do the job. Therefore a snugger fit is needed. When looking for the right comparison in sizing for women, you would wear the same size or possibly down size, ½ size. Example: if your shoe size is a 7 M, you will wear either a size 7 M or a size 6 ½ M. The same applies to men. 

How Your Foot Fits:  The boot should fit the foot from the heel to the ball of the foot. The ball of the foot (the widest part of the foot) should be at the widest part of the outsole. The toes should be at or just entering the toe box area, which is approximately 1 to 2 inches from the tip of the boot.

Is Slipping Good?  The single hardest thing for the first time boot wearers to over come, is the fact that a boot must have slippage in the heel to fit properly. Most, if not all, first time boot wearers feel that the boot does not fit correctly if there is any slippage in the heel. There should be slippage in the heel, anywhere from ½ inch to as much as 1 inch, up and down. This is perfectly normal. If the heel does not slip, the heel will develop a blister because the boot too short (small). As the leather stretches, and conforms to your foot, (insoles included which this is called “the flexing of the sole”) the slippage should subside or go away in about a weeks worth of wearing.

Tightness on the Top of the Foot:  The leather should be snug across the instep, but not too tight, which would be considered a pinching or a biting feeling. Snugness on the instep is vital for a proper fit and will stretch out and go away.

Lengthen the life of your boots and improve their appearance by following these easy steps: 

1.  Wipe Off Dust

Remember that leather is skin and will react the way skin does, so the most important thing you can do in caring for any piece of leather footwear is to KEEP IT FREE OF DUST.  Dust will settle in the creases of boots and shoes.  It acts like sandpaper; cutting at the finish with every step you take.  Sooner or later, it will cut through not only the finish but the fiber itself and the leather will split.  WIPE YOUR BOOTS OFTEN, not just before you shine them, but also every time you take them off.  You don't need a special cloth or brush.  Make it a habit to wipe them off with anything you have handy.  You can't wipe boots too often.  

2.  Wash Off Loose Dirt

Regardless of the style, boots are far from simple.  Boots have a lengthy construction time, often necessitating dozens (if not hundreds) of individual steps until they are fully made.  For instance high quality hand crafted leather western boots can have about 300 individual steps from the time the leather is cut for the boot until the boots are inspected and boxed.  This can mean dozens and hundreds of people are often involved in the production of every single boot.  From stitching up vamp (front) of the boot to the counters (back) of the boot to attaching the outsole (bottom) of the boot: boots take teams of specialists.  This can make the labor costs of producing a boot quite high.  But, the clichŽ "you get what you pay for" really applies when it comes to western boots.  The same is true for work, motorcycle, casual and fashion boot styles.  If you'd like to learn more about what goes into the making of a boot we recommend reading Art of the Boot by Tyler Beard and Jim Arndt. 

Material
Leather is often the choice of material for boots.  Because leather is known as a luxury material, leather boots and shoes are considered high quality, durable products.  These aren't tennis shoes!  Thus, the brands found on BootBarn.com take their product quality and functionality very seriously.  Leather is prepared in a number of different ways from suede to distress to rough out.  Each prepared style gives the boot quite a different look and feel.  Add on to the obvious fact that besides cowhide, leather can come from a variety of sources from pigs to snakes to birds to elephants. 

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The Outsole is simply the bottom of the boot and gives your feet some "grip". The occasion that you wear boots and the style will greatly influence what type of outsole is on the boot.  For western boots, you generally have leather or rubber-like outsoles.  Leather outsoles are for traditionalists and are good for dancing.  The general trend for western boots is heading more and more towards rubber.  Two reasons are rubber generally tends to last longer and it is making the boots less expensive.  Don't forget the new cushy crepe outsoles of which the material allows extra comfort for standing and doesn't slip as much when riding on horses. 

On work and motorcycle boots the outsole will likely be a rubber material that has special trends and properties depending on your needs.  For instance a work boot may have an outsole that is specifically designed not to track mud and dirt or it can be designed to be slip and oil resistant.  There is no standard tests that brands use to determine if a boot is slip resistant, oil resistant, water resistant, etc.  Generally, brands use their own standards to determine if a boot meets one of the above requirements.

Insoles give your feet a little cushion to add some extra comfort.  Different brands use different insoles.  Each brand offers the latest technology and patented designs for their insoles.  Sometimes insoles will be just a light EVA pad to cushion and form to your feet or it will be a multi-layered signature system by a leading brand name.  There are many who prefer not to have insoles and often remove them.  We don't recommend removing a boots insoles.  Just remember, insoles are not required on boots, but they do help provide some extra comfort.  
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Construction often refers to how the outsole is attached to the boot.  Outsoles are generally either pegged (or nailed), sown or cemented onto the bottom of the boot.  Outsoles that have been cemented or directly attached to the boot are generally more flexible to begin with, but often these boots can not be resoled.  Often outsoles that have been welted or pegged can usually be resoled. 

Shanks aren't needed in every boot.  Depending on the need, boot makers insert a "shank" in the middle of the bottom of the boot to give it extra form and strength. The shank is usually a small metal, plastic or fiber piece of material that gives extra form and strength to a boot.  Boots that have shanks are not as flexible on the outsoles as those boots that don't have shanks.

Adding height and style to a boot, heels range from less than an inch to many inches.  On western boots cowboy heels are slightly sloped and are generally 1 5/8" in height.  Roper and Walking Heels are usually a bit larger at the base and slightly smaller with a flat, uniform slope. Occasionally work boots will have an extra padded heel to prevent slipping, while fashion styles may have small treads on just the heel for the same effect.  

Toes can mean style or function.  For example western boots are typically either a narrow toe, medium round or wide round toe.  Narrow toes give a unique style and look while wider toes offer more room or comfort.  On the toe some boots can even have a small stitch pattern referred to as a medallion and can have a toe rand (metal piece) at the tip of the boot.  Motorcycle boots are generally round or square-like (snoot or snip).  Casual styles can be all of the above and more.  When it comes to work, extra functions such as safety and non-safety apply.  Some prefer non-safety toe to comfort and a lighter weight boot.  Yet, some professionals need the extra protection of safety toes.  Safety toes have a small steel plate or composite plate on the top of the toe region of the boot.  These toes pass the ANSI test, meaning that the toe can withstand 75lb impact & compression up to 2500lb. 

Western Toe information and examples

Children, Youth, Infant and Toddler Size information